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Error codes · read before you call

Appliance error codes, decoded

A code on the display is the machine's own first guess at what went wrong. It is useful, and it is not a diagnosis. This index covers the codes we see most across the Lowcountry, brand by brand, with what each one usually points to and what the technician does about it with a meter before writing a number.

  • Photograph the code before it clears
  • The meter decides, the code narrows
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An error code narrows the field. A washer that says OE is talking about drainage, not the door lock, and a range flashing F2 is talking about the oven sensor, not the burners. That saves time at the door. Photograph the code as soon as you see it, because many machines clear it on the next power cycle and some show a different code on the retry. Then tell us the code and the model number when you book. The technician still puts a meter on the part the code blames, because a code identifies the circuit that complained, not necessarily the component that failed inside it.

The code changes what the van carries. A Whirlpool F21 means the drain pump and its harness go on the shelf that morning; a Samsung 22E means the evaporator fan and the thermistor ride along. The Lowcountry adds its own patterns. Hurricane-season surges through Park Circle, Hanahan and Mount Pleasant produce board codes by the dozen in one week. River humidity near Noisette Creek and the Cooper corrodes sensor connectors until a dryer reports a moisture-sensing fault that is really a dirty pin. The code is where we start, and the meter is where we finish.

Washers

CodeBrandWhat it meansWhat we do
OE / OFLGDrain fault: the tub did not empty in the time allowed.Drain by the service hose, clear the pump filter, meter the pump windings, check the standpipe height and hose kinks.
UELGUnbalanced load: the drum could not level out for spin.Redistribute and retest, then check shock absorbers, suspension rods and the hall sensor before blaming the load.
IELGInlet error: the tub did not fill to level in time.Confirm supply valves, meter both inlet valve coils, inspect screens for grit, and test the pressure switch and hose.
LELGMotor locked or rotor fault, often from a heavy load.Meter the stator windings and hall sensor, inspect the rotor for wear, then test a spin under load.
4C / 4ESamsungWater supply problem: no fill or a fill that took too long.Check supply and screens, meter the inlet valves, and test the water level sensor and its air hose.
5C / 5ESamsungDrain error: water stayed in the tub past the limit.Pull the pump filter, meter the drain pump, inspect the drain hose and confirm the pump runs when commanded.
dC / dESamsungDoor not registering closed, or the door lock failed.Inspect the strike and latch, meter the door lock switch, check the harness, then run a locked spin.
F21 / F02Whirlpool / MaytagLong drain: the control never saw the tub reach empty.Clear the pump trap, meter the drain pump, test the pressure switch, and confirm the drain hose is not siphoning.

Dryers

CodeBrandWhat it meansWhat we do
d80 / d90 / d95LGExhaust airflow blocked at 80, 90 or 95 percent.Measure static pressure at the exhaust, clear the vent run to the outside, then verify the flow sensor reads clean.
tE1 / tE2LGThermistor open, shorted or reading out of range.Meter the thermistor at room temperature against spec, check its harness, and confirm the heater cycles normally.
HESamsungHeating error: the drum never reached the set temperature in time.Meter the heating element and thermostats, check the gas igniter and flame sensor on gas units, test airflow.
tS / tC / tOSamsungTemperature sensor fault: the thermistor or its wiring is out of range.Meter the thermistor resistance, inspect connector pins for corrosion, and repair the harness or replace the sensor.
F01Whirlpool / MaytagMain control board failure or a damaged board connection.Check line voltage and harness connectors before replacing the board, then run a timed cycle to confirm.
AF / L2Whirlpool / MaytagAirflow restricted, or low line voltage on one leg.Test both legs at the terminal block, then measure exhaust flow and clear the vent to the cap.
E61 / E63 / E64Frigidaire / ElectroluxHeater relay stuck, or the heating element has failed.Meter the element and relay, confirm voltage at the heater under a heat cycle, and replace the failed part.
E4 / E8GEThermistor or inlet temperature sensor out of range.Meter the sensor, check for a slipped connector, then verify the dryer reaches and holds set temperature.

Refrigerators & freezers

CodeBrandWhat it meansWhat we do
Er FFLGFreezer fan error: the evaporator fan is stalled or slow.Check for ice on the fan blade, meter the motor and its feed voltage, and inspect the defrost circuit.
Er rFLGRefrigerator compartment fan not running at the speed the board commanded.Meter the fresh-food fan and its harness, check for a frozen blade, and test the board output to the fan.
Er ISLGIce maker sensor fault: the ice room thermistor is out of range.Meter the sensor, check the harness through the door hinge, and confirm the ice maker cycles after repair.
22E / 22CSamsungFresh-food fan error: evaporator fan blocked or failed.Look for ice buildup, meter the fan motor, test the defrost heater and sensor that let the ice form.
5E / 5CSamsungDefrost sensor on the fresh-food side out of range.Meter the defrost sensor, check the defrost heater and fuse, and confirm the evaporator clears on a forced defrost.
F7GECommunication or control error between the main board and a sensor.Check board connectors and voltage, meter the suspect sensor, and rule out a surge before ordering a board.
E1 / SY EFFrigidaire / ElectroluxFresh-food thermistor fault, or evaporator fan failure on SY EF.Meter the thermistor and fan, inspect connectors for corrosion, and test the board output under load.
PO / PFWhirlpool / KitchenAidPower outage flag: temperatures may have risen while power was off.Clear the flag, verify compressor and fans start normally, and log temperatures to be sure nothing failed.

Ranges & ovens

CodeBrandWhat it meansWhat we do
F1Whirlpool / GE / FrigidaireControl board fault, stuck key, or a runaway temperature reading.Test the keypad and board separately, meter the oven sensor, and confirm the relay board before replacing anything.
F2 / F3Whirlpool / GE / FrigidaireOven sensor circuit open or shorted, or oven over temperature.Meter the oven temperature sensor at room temperature, inspect its wiring, and check for a stuck relay.
F9Whirlpool / KitchenAidDoor lock not moving as commanded, often after a self-clean.Meter the lock motor and switches, inspect the latch mechanism, and confirm the door unlocks after cooldown.
F10Frigidaire / ElectroluxRunaway temperature: the oven reads far hotter than commanded.Meter the probe sensor, check the relay board for a welded relay, and verify the oven holds a set temperature.
F30 / F31Frigidaire / ElectroluxOven sensor open or shorted at the control board.Meter the sensor and harness, look for a broken wire at the back, retest at temperature.
E0 / E1 / F5GE / SamsungIgniter or oven sensor fault: the oven did not light or reach set point.Meter the igniter current draw, test the safety valve on gas units, and check the sensor and relay on electric.
F5E1 / F5E2Whirlpool / MaytagDoor switch or door lock fault on the control.Meter the door switch and lock assembly, check alignment, and confirm the control sees the door properly.
-F- / E15 flashingBosch / ThermadorControl lockout, or a fault the panel could not describe.Cycle power, read the hidden diagnostic code, then meter the component that code names.

Dishwashers

CodeBrandWhat it meansWhat we do
OELGDrain error: water remained in the sump after draining.Clear the sump and filter, meter the drain pump, check the air gap and disposer knockout, and run a drain.
LELGMotor error: the wash motor is locked or drawing too much.Clear debris from the pump, meter the motor windings, and run a wash cycle to confirm normal current.
HELGHeater fault: the water never reached wash temperature.Meter the heating element and thermistor, test the relay on the board, and confirm a hot final rinse.
4C / 4ESamsungWater supply fault: the tub did not fill to level in time.Check the supply valve and screen for scale, meter the inlet valve, and test the flow meter and level sensor.
E15BoschWater in the base pan: the leak sensor tripped.Dry the pan, pressure-test hoses and the sump seal, find the leak with a light, and clear the float.
E24BoschDrain fault: the pump could not empty the tub.Clear the filter and impeller, check the drain hose loop and disposer plug, meter the drain pump.
E22BoschFilter or sump blocked, leaving standing water in the tub.Clean the filter and sump, inspect the impeller, run a drain and confirm the tub empties fully.
F8 / F9Whirlpool / KitchenAidSlow fill or slow drain: the control did not see water move on time.Meter the inlet valve and drain pump, inspect the float switch, and check the hose routing under the sink.

Ice makers

CodeBrandWhat it meansWhat we do
E3 / E4 / ECGE / BoschIce maker or freezer sensor fault: thermistor out of range.Meter the ice room thermistor and mold sensor, inspect the door harness, and confirm a full harvest cycle.
5E / 5C (ice)SamsungIce room defrost sensor fault, often with the ice room frozen solid.Thaw the ice room, meter the sensor and defrost heater, and check the duct seal that lets warm air in.
dS / dESamsung / LGIce maker motor or ejector position fault: the tray did not cycle.Meter the ejector motor, check the position sensor and cube jam, and run a test harvest from the board.
HC / Er HCSamsung / LGHot ambient or door left open, so the ice maker paused.Check the door gasket and switches, verify freezer temperature, and confirm the ice maker resumes once cold.
Er IS / Er ItLGIce maker sensor or ice tray motor error inside the ice room.Meter the thermistor and tray motor, check the harness through the hinge, and force a test cycle to confirm.
Er 1F / F1LG / FrigidaireIce room fan not running: no airflow across the ice maker.Clear ice from the fan blade, meter the fan motor and its feed, and test the defrost circuit that failed.
Er gFLGFlow meter error: water did not reach the fill tube as expected.Check the supply line and filter, meter the inlet valve, and inspect the fill tube for a frozen plug.
Give us the code and the machine when you book and the van arrives with the parts that code points to. The $99 diagnostic is inside the written price you approve, and booking online takes up to $20 off the repair. Book online →

Code questions

Should I clear the error code before the technician arrives?

Photograph it first, then you may cycle the power if you need the machine off. Most boards store the last several faults in a hidden menu the technician can read, but a photo of the live code and the model tag saves time and guarantees we bring the right parts. If the machine keeps working after the reset, keep the photo and tell us what it was doing when the code appeared.

The code says the pump failed. Can you just replace the pump?

We will if the meter agrees. A drain code means the control did not see the water leave; the cause can be a clogged filter, a kinked hose, a bad pressure sensor or a dead pump. We test each in order. That is why the diagnostic comes first and the written number covers exactly what failed, with the $99 already inside it.

My refrigerator showed a code after a storm and now nothing lights up. What happened?

Almost always a surge through the main board or inverter board during a hurricane-season outage. The technician checks line voltage at the outlet, then meters the board outputs and the compressor windings separately, because a dead board is a same-visit repair and a dead compressor is a different conversation. Photograph the code if it comes back.

Does an error code mean the repair will cost more?

No. The code changes nothing about the price structure. Every visit is a $99 diagnostic, that $99 is inside the written repair price when you approve, and $99 is the whole bill if you decline. What the code does is help us load the van correctly, so more repairs close on the first visit. Booking online is worth up to $20 off the repair itself.

What if my machine shows a code that is not on this list?

Tell us the code and the model number anyway. This page covers the codes we see most from Park Circle to Mount Pleasant; the brands publish hundreds more, and the technician has the full fault tables for every line we service, including Sub-Zero, Wolf, Thermador, Miele and JennAir. The procedure at the door does not change: meter first, plain-words diagnosis, one written number.

On the route

The machines behind the codes

Code on the display? Photograph it, then call.

Tell us the code and the machine — the van arrives already loaded. $99 diagnostic, inside the repair.

up to $20 off Book online (843) 829-1349